Ever since Scott Sawant opened Zeal Kitchen & Bar in late 2013, his debut East Cobb restaurant on Johnson Ferry Road never had much to worry about when health inspectors arrived.
The twice-a-year inspections had resulted in three perfect scores of 100, a few more in the 90s and just one below that, an 86.
The graduate of Wheeler High School and its culinary program had carved out a niche in an East Cobb restaurant scene suddenly brimming with high-end options, focusing on what he calls a “chef-driven” menu catering to a decidedly suburban palate.
When Zeal’s familiar inspector from Cobb and Douglas Public Health showed up unannounced (as all inspectors do) on April 5, however, something very different was about to transpire.
Instead of the usual half-hour or so it took to conduct the inspection, this one lasted longer, more than two hours, by his accounting. It took place between lunch and dinner, he said, before staff could conduct a post-lunch cleaning.
Several violations, in the kitchen and around it, even regarding the menu and where the health inspection reports were posted, began to pile up. The result: A score of 61 for Zeal, a failing grade. This had never happened before.
Here’s a link to the full report, which included citations for improper storage of food, unlabeled chemical spray bottles, and one that was made especially public, a buildup of mildew in the front kitchen area.
“Mildew is a word that’s so scary for customers,” said Sawant, who added that he didn’t smell any, and that he has long contracted with a company that does such hygiene-oriented cleaning on premises weekly.
Sawant was shocked and upset. He thought some of the violations were technicalities, such as a container of grits not being warmed at a proper temperature, although he said he explained to the inspector that the container wasn’t in the kitchen area and the grits weren’t going to be served. However, that was good for a nine-point deduction.
Another violation indicated that Zeal’s bar menu didn’t disclose that one of the cocktails is made with egg whites, although that information is on the main restaurant menu.
“We fixed everything right away,” Sawant said.
When inspectors arrived several days later (as they do to follow up a failed inspection), Zeal received a perfect score of 100 (here’s the link to that report).
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Sawant said he was alternately relieved but also still concerned about what his regular customers, as well as potential new customers, would think. Zeal has won several awards, including at the Taste of Marietta, and for its gluten-free options.
“It feels like you failed somebody in a relationship,” he said. “We’ve had good relationships with so many of our customers for nearly five years.”
He decided that being forthcoming about the inspection was the best way to go. He sent out an e-mail to “friends and community supporters” (East Cobb News also received a copy) explaining what had happened. He said that while he disagreed with the score, “my goal is to continue to focus on doing the right things and the right outcomes will follow.”
Sawant told us in an interview this week that failing a health inspection is far worse than getting bad reviews, since the latter “are so subjective.” He said he estimates the lost business to the restaurant since the failed inspection has cost him around $36,000.
But fixing the problems, he said, are paramount. A second failed inspection could result in at least the temporary closure of a restaurant.
“If you fail again, you don’t deserve to serve the public,” Sawant said. “I’m fine with that.”
It’s been a difficult month or so for Sawant and his Zeal staff of 28 for other reasons, too. One of their fellow employees, Alexander Seidnitzer, died in a motorcycle accident on Johnson Ferry Road in late March, and Zeal held a special event at the restaurant in his memory.
Sawant, who got his start in the restaurant industry by working at LaMadeleine at Providence Square and then by serving that company as a corporate trainer, said he’s tapped into that background, and by tightening food storage and cleaning procedures, during what’s been his most challenging time as a business owner.
He said a number of customers have sent him messages of support, and only one has been negative.
“We’re going to continue to do what we do,” Sawant said, “because we’ve been doing so well.”
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